A few random thoughts

 In Chiang Mai where I am living there is an abundant amount of flowering trees, therefore a sweet amount of colourful confetti covering the lawns and streets! Here is the gardener for our condo raking up the flamboyant leaves.
Today I went to drop off my bike to get repaired. Riding a bike here is kinda crazy, but its my mode of transportation and in 95-104 degree temperature, walking is no fun. The roads are like nowhere I have ever been, even the Caribbean looks tame to this mayhem where people weave in and out and go the wrong way and think the stop light is a suggestion! Anyhow, If I make it out alive, I am happy, yet no need living in fear and staying home.I will say its a concentration like no other. Off to the market  to get some random items (nails, string, bike light, White chanterelle mushrooms for less than a dollar, an apple crisp pan and a few other things) I love wandering around the market, I always find something new. Today find was a Vegetarian vender with all types of dishes. I got a green SPICY curry with eggplant dish with some type of either wheat or soy product fake meat stuff.! It was Yummy.  Someone told me the reason the veggies stay fresh so long from Most Thai markets and the Warorot Market is because they inject Formaldehyde to keep them fresh longer, not to mention the insecticides. This saddened me tremendously,I just can't imagine it. Locals told me to soak the produce in water for at least 15 mins. with a little baking soda. YIKES. I must also look for mineral water as the bottled water is empty of goodness. I will try to go to the organic mkt, yet I do not always have that choice and eating out you just can't always control it. I decided to do the best I can and not worry about it. I do Organic's when I can, but there are so many people eating these harmful foods now. I later read an article in the Bangkok paper talking about food in Thailand and the dangers. ( Like so many places)
 On a positive note there are all these signs at different temples that I am enjoying, here is a simple one I find to be true. By the way I leave my helmut, umbrella in my basket on my bike and it's no problem!After the market I rode to the neighbourhood bakery to pick up the left over old Bangkok newspapers to recycle them for my students. I also use them for class, to wrap gifts in, or when I paint. I find there is so much you can recycle when you do not have that much. I save coffee grounds and eggshells for plants(fertiliser), bottles( vases or salad dressing), onion bags (scrubbies), rubber bands for rubber bands and plastic bags for trash bags. One book I had to leave behind which I never finished is "All about stuff" I think it was called. It made me cry at first but think as well, and some say" its just the way it is", but I know I can do my part. Imagine if more people thought about it and did a little something? It's just one of those battles I will always fight after seeing the currents of mile long trash in the middle of the ocean. Not sure if anyone saw the post of Steve Cutts "Man" video ( on my Facebook page), but it's very intense and I recommend watching the 4 mins. Just little tidbits for thought.

I am the year of the Rabbit

 These kids studying medicine in Thailand asked to interview me!

At the Color Factory there was a workshop for kids from Singapore ( Why did USA axe Art in school?)

Typical Northern Thai dessert: Sweet gooey balls with nuts and garlic inside!( Felt like eating an eyeball!) 

Tradition and worship in the workplace!

One I like out of many

I could stay here 40 years and probably not see all the spirit houses of Chiang Mai.

speaks for itself, one of many signs around town.

My loaner bike packed full of goodies. Ahh Notice the bag of coconut water on the

handlebars. I shouldn't have, but it was extremely hot and I needed hydration. Bags Bags Bags.....

Thanks for reading, Until next time.....Annie

Chiang Dao Cave and Doi Angkhang and the Royal Agriculture Project

We set off with Jack our driver at 8:30 am on Friday in a nice comfortable van. Heading north on route 107 we left the city behind and soon were in the rice fields and mountains that I longed for. Chiang Dao Cave was our first stop. For 240 Bhat we were guided thru the limestone and crystal cave by a local woman after reading a warning sign that said if we did not go with a guide the Thai government would not be responsible  for us.. Allan quickly reminisced with his youth with the smell and hissing sound of the oil lamp. The atmosphere was eerie as we entered the dimly lit cave of stalagmites, bats, iconic sculptures  and musty smells. The rooms lit up and were enormous with rock formations that formed odd shapes oozing water onto the floor of the smooth well trodden floor of the cave scattered with bat excrement. A lovely smell! but worth it. Some rooms were as large as a stadium and some areas we had to contort to get thru. One tunnel was 25 feet long on our hands, knees and butt. The formations were incredible and changing with each room we entered. The locals would say this is an Elephant, or a rabbit, and this is two candles and so forth.

 
 http://www.visitchiangmai.com.au/chiang_dao_caves.html

 We were lucky to be there right before rainy season as when the rains come they flood the caves and they are closed.

Bats

 The strangest thing we saw were a few mannequins sporting Thai dress! There were Buddha temples of worship with candles and ribbons throughout the cave.
 I couldn't help but think about the lantern going out or a tremor in the earth. There was a hermit that stayed in the cave for most of his life and I just couldn't imagine no sunlight.  The cool temperature of the cave was a nice break from the heat.

We boarded our van again and made the winding climbing trip up the mountain to Doi Angkhang and the Royal Agricultural Project Park

Ang Khang Royal Agricultural Station 

Most everyone knows my interest in Wild Plants and Gardening. 

Located in the valley of Doi Ang Khang, the station is designated for conducting experiments on possible temperate plants to be grown in Thailand. The experiment is aimed at promoting the cultivation of cash crops to replace hill tribes' opium plantations. Inside the station, there are beautiful landscaped flower gardens, a restaurant and plantations. We arrived during the off season and were the only people there. We walked around a bit in the flower garden,bonsai section and strolled past the fruit orchards up to the Tea packaging area where we found a few workers chatting in the back room. They offered us a tasting of some of their organic red tea. I of course bought a bag. I was expecting to find more vegetable gardens and organic produce for sale, but It felt like the off season was not the time to visit. 

The scenery was fantastic however, and there was some good information displayed about all the wonderful projects that were going on. I did find a great tractor that brought me back to days in Vermont.

Lisu Workshop

Sunday I signed up for a Lisu bag workshop at MiM's house in the Wat Kate area (right behind where I live!) I arrived by bicycle as it was in the neighbourhood. MiMi is a very warm and friendly woman from the Lisu tribe who spoke English,Thai and her own native language. She started off by asking if everyone drank alcohol!   It was 10 am but why not? We were starting the day off by toasting with a whiskey made from some herbal bark. Quite strong! There were around 10 other women there from all over the world and all ages. I really like this about Thailand, it draws an international crowd. The gardens blocked out the neighbourhood so you didn't feel like you were in the city. There was a bamboo thatched replica Lisu Dwelling constructed in the front yard, open on all sides. An intricate weave in the palm frond roof allowed for protection from the elements (except mosquitoes). On the ground a fire was built and a pot over the burning wood, held rice. Not far from the fire were 4 sticks stuck verticle in the ground, this was the start of the weaving

     

 MiMi introduced her culture to us by explaining the "spirit" bag we were going to see made. The Lisu people weave these bags and offer them to their dead with various items inside, for the deceased to take with them to the next life. Items like a sling shot, rice, money, betel nuts, cigarettes and a knife. There is always a hole in the bottom of the bag for the placement of the inscence. The colors that are used are traditional Lisu colours and are carefully chosen, much talk takes place during the process. There are many different parts to the bag, The ears are square patches embroidered (now machine made) on the side of the bag. They are a kind of "Agamaga" or spider weave, web of life I suppose. When a woman can't finish her bag for one reason or another she will tell her son to find a young girl to finish it for her. He will ask the young girl by singing a song and giving her a bar of soap as payment!  The Lisu thinks the bag looks ugly without the ears. There is also tails and wings (to fly away) that adorn the bag. The larger flaps on the side are called the leaves. so much of the meaning comes from nature with which they live so close. The bag is started on the ground by carefully arranging the threads around the sticks in an arrangement that takes concentration, as one alternates the way you turn the thread on the spindle each pass. Many of us tried it, and something that looks simple is not always as it appears.

The women carefully watched so we did not make any mistakes. It takes one day to make a strap and 3-4 days for the bag part. They have shifted from the multicoloured bags to a two tone brighter version for time and for tourism. The two toned bags go for 200 Bhat which is $6.00!

  The women laughed a lot and had wonderful smile lines on their faces, blackened teeth from the Betel nut chewing. Mimi explained life in their village. Seems the young people want to move out to the cities and not carry on the traditional crafts any longer. Seeking out a better living. The women work hard in the fields doing agricultural chores and when they have time weave. The elders resort to weaving when fieldwork gets too difficult on their bodies. The Lisu people originated from Tibet, they are a semi nomadic indigenous tribe who have migrated over the past 300 years down thru China, Burma and Laos. The last 80 years they began to settle in Northern Thailand close to the border of Burma (Myanmar) in the mountains.

After weaving for a bit we had a traditional Lisu lunch which consisted of Organic vegetables in the form of a local wild spinach soup and a spicy white radish (Daikon) salad, another broccoli salad, green mango slices and of course rice. The dishes are quite simple, not too many ingredients. Rice is special in the Asian culture as we know, but in the Lisu tribe, they take it to another level. Each place has their own special rice and they exchange it among each other if they grow fond of someone else's in the village. Some of the dishes they make like the black sticky rice is made only during Songkran Festival (New Year). The food was delicious.

 

 After lunch we went upstairs to MiMi's showroom of her collection of traditional dresses from back in time. She showed us how the style has changed over the years, how the more black on a certain part of the costume meant more wealth, we also saw a traditional wedding dress. We heard the story of the Dogs teeth, which is too long of a story for right now. Lets just say the Lisu honour dogs,                   they do not eat them, and I am happy about that! It was a wonderful day.

Wingin it!

If you can't laugh at yourself something is wrong, we all do silly things now and again.

Ok so here's a short blog about funny things that happened, and some other quirks.

 I needed some body lotion so I look around and see this stuff called Fresh Milk, all pretty with twine and a cloth leaf, 2 bucks, Next to the Nivea cream. I motion to the lady by rubbing my arm like spreading lotion, she says yes. I go home put the lotion on and go out. I come home and wash my hands and see that there are bubbles forming on my arm, oh silly, it's soap not lotion! I had it all over my body, good thing it didn't start raining, that would have been embarrassing!

If something is too good to be true, it's probably not true! I found some ylang ylang essential oils at the market and smelled them all. Pretty nice, but after the attack of all the smells maybe it was mind over matter, I fell for it. $1.50 for essential oils! I thought lots of flowers,Thailand….maybe? But maybe not. I got home and put the oil in the diffuser to find that it didn't have that nice ylang ylang smell, just a cheap imitation. Oh well, live and learn.

I saw these wonderful pants with a stretchy back and thought well I can probably fit. I motioned to the merchant thinking they have a good take on size with so many farangs about. Yes they will fit! Ok so I got the merchant down by bargaining and bought them. I came home and tried them on, Not only were they snug they were too short too. Another lesson learned, difficult for my size to buy clothing from most places, not all. Later I found a wonderful shirt, I will send the pants on to someone who will enjoy them. But I wonder, are the prices fair, how can these be made for $3.00, are we helping people? I also went to a fair trade place and couldn't afford their prices, a happy medium?

As I came with only two pieces of luggage, I have had to be resourceful. I recycle my soda water bottles for a vase, I cut the milk carton in half for a water dish for paints, I use the paper bags to dry my herbs when I can't use it all, and I use postcards to decorate the walls. I did just buy my first beautiful piece of art a Buddah face carved in Teak wood, now to find a  hammer and nail!

One of the things I noticed when we came into our condo is that they have left the plastic on the lamp shades. Hmmm, do I rip it off or keep it on? The Thai put the light switches all on the outside of the room, I  am still getting used to that.  Sweeping brings to mind the constant clean up that happens around here, it really does look nice and manicured. I can't wait to get a Hula Hoop and maybe bocce and play on the lawn. The guards are always out front and another in the garage. They often times will open the elevator for me so I don't have to dig for my plastic security key. Thailand employs many people for what we would consider one job. They earn very little, but unemployment is low.

Walking home last night I got to see some locals homes, by day they are shops by night the door gets closed a bit and they are home. Simple Simple, nothing like what I am living in. I am rich, imagine that. I have always thought that though, even when in my own country I struggle to stay afloat, I am still much better off financially than 90% of the people on the planet. I have learned this traveling. I have also learned from my last move that one doesn't need so much stuff. I look at things in a different way, I have become more of a minimalist, seeing that the most important things really are my art supplies, and kitchen utensils and a few plants! At times I miss things that I had, but really it's just stuff. Some stuff makes doing things easier, like my garlic press, a dryer, my easel and a few more things like my car!

I am learning all sorts of interesting differences between the Thai way and the Western way. This is one of the reasons I am taking the TEFL, they help you with not only revisiting english skills, they teach Thai culture and language and they help with getting a bank, visa questions, and more valuable info. I am thankful for all of this.

Thanks for reading,
Annie

Thoughts on Thailand after two months

Well on the 3rd of March it will be two months since arriving in Thailand. My first time in Asia. I wanted to relay some of my experiences here, both funny, annoying and gratifying.

 I guess the first thing I noticed was all the bowing and saluting that happens here. When you walk into the mall there is a guard at the door who opens it for you at the same time salutes you! When you say "hello" and "goodbye" which happens to be the same word, a bow follows usually with a smile. I am still figuring out many things, and as several of my readers have been here already I'd love your input at any time. Manners are found here and I will not go into all the various methods of bowing.

 Allan and I were together for the first 3 weeks, he has traveled Asia before so it was not new.
We spent 3 weeks running around to different apartments and houses to find a place to rent with a company called "Expat Homes." www.homeinchiangmai.com After we found Floral Condo, we had to get many goods like towels, dishes, cleaning supplies and the usual set up, so it would feel like home. Luckily it was furnished, but we still had some bulky items to get (clothes drying rack, trash cans and pots and pans) So off to the markets and malls we went. The local Warorot Market had some items that we could buy, but we had to check the malls for most of the wares. You should have seen us with our huge bags stuffed full. We grabbed a Songtauw and filled it for a ride home.At that point we were staying in a very sweet Guesthouse called Baan Ing Ping www.baan-ing-ping.com. Yupa is a wonderful woman and was very helpful, her staff included, always smiling and helping out. Baan ing ping is on the Ping river and has a wonderful garden to sit and contemplate life. I can't wait to go back to see them.

I believe I have now been to 4 of the great malls here in Chiang Mai ( Central Plaza, Kad Suan Kaew, Airport Plaza Mall and Maya) They all feel like any mall USA but actually a bit nicer! The airport mall had a huge aquarium in it with new cars for sale surrounding it. A woman dressed for a fancy dinner spoke into a microphone announcing the cars (I think anyhow). In these malls there are cinema's (a regular one and a first class one),

First Class Cinema, look at the lounge recliners ! Not cheap.

Some kind of meeting center, it was packed!

big public meeting rooms, and even a skating rink! There is food everywhere you turn in Thailand, from fast food to homemade waffles made to order on the street outside the malls. The Thais seem to snack all day long, yet stay so thin.

One of the first items we got were our telephone numbers. We got were allowed to choose the number out of many and then they proceeded to put the chip in for us. It was very easy until the messages came through in Thai language! I just figured out how to cut and paste the messages and go to itranslate to read them!( still can't really figure them out though) It's all coming back to me again, traveling in a country where you can't speak or even try to read the language. Lots of sign language going on, and even then it is not always easy. It seems the first thing people learn here are the numbers. Bargaining is expected and they know their numbers. I of course hate this, always have. I have found myself laughing a bit over bargaining for less than a dollar, I say to myself "really Annie?" I stick out here, it's called "Falang" otherwise known as foreigner. They will try to get the best price, do you blame them? But it's known that you bargain. It can be fun if you make it,other times annoying.Sometimes I choose to just walk, which is something Thai's do not like. I don't really blame them as the sidewalks are terrible and crossing the road is the most dangerous thing one can do next to riding a scooter.

Baan Ing Ping

Water, that resource we can't do without.

They have dispensers around the neighborhoods where you fill your bottles up for cheap. I can get a liter and a half for 1 Bhat, remember 32 Bhats = 1$. The ice cube trays in my freezer are brilliant. you turn a knob and they spill out into the bin. The water pressure and  heater are fine, but most Thai kitchens and bathroom sinks do not have hat water. We are lucky and have hot water in our bathroom but not in the kitchen! There is a spigot like the one you find in a sink, next to the toilet. This is very European, and well, not in my upbringing, but I am getting to like it actually! Most toilets in the malls and hotels are regular porcelain toilets, others are squat, meaning a hole with two foot pads. One toilet I found in a fancy mall had so many buttons on it I wasn't sure what to push (Japanese no doubt). Afraid of some water fountain spay down, I opted not to push any. All the public toilets here, you take your shoes off and put on a pair of slippers to go in, they also cost a few Bhat to use and toilet paper is optional.

While we are on the water topic, the river here has brown water flowing( definitely not the caribbean color), yet the mountain rivers seem to flow clear during this time of year.

So Allan hooked up my iPad to the T.V so I can watch movies from iTunes as Pandora doesn't work and Netflicks doesn't exist either. I get subtitles and I can't figure out how to stop them. I can get movies and music which is great, as long as I keep my iPad charged. We have basic service, so 4 stations of Thai. The internet here is bad, Monday I need to up the service. There are times that it's faster, when everyone is asleep or out dancing! I have battled with electronic failures and challenges with Thai language coming up on my screen a fair bit. I have figured all this out now and have upped the service, internet works nice now.

Speaking of sleep, I am adjusting to the city here. Did you know that Thai's like to party? Not only on the weekends either. The music starts around 10-11 and goes until 1-2am… Monday thru Sunday! There is a Mosque that plays its prayers, a Church that rings is bells, a few dogs and the loudest birds I have ever heard. Chiang Mai has the most scooters I have ever seen.

The Tuk Tuks and the Songtauws are plentiful, and the cars mostly modern ( I think they have a proper inspection here).

Surrounding the condo are these giant rain trees with a majestic canopy that spreads over a massive well groomed lawn with green grass. There is a pair of small owls int he tree outside our window that I love to watch. One of the reason we chose this condo is for the landscape, each window in the condo has a view of trees and a few rooftops as well as the mountain. The light is plenty, breeze flows thru, and there is a large pool, tennis court and a gym. It is the tallest building in Chiang Mai yet none of the taxi drivers knows it! Serious. Lucky for me It is my beacon for getting home. I just tell them Wat Kate (the temple near here) then I walk. It is one of the nicest temples in Chiang Mai I believe and right next door.It is the year of the Dog temple,so many dogs and statues of dogs are around. I will post my temple pictures in another blog, I have been to several.

Floral Condo

 I am alone now and having a different experience. I feel safe walking around day or night. There are so many single women here, I think because of the safe feeling, and the spiritual feel too. I also notice the Farang population seems to be 20-30 year olds and then 60+, just my observation. I think the over 60 population seems to be retired, the 20's are exploring or teaching English. I'm finding interesting things every time I do venture out onto the streets and am enjoying the experience of being alone in a foreign country, though I do miss my friends. I get to see Allan in Phuket mid March! I have just finished my month long TEFL Teaching English as a Second Language. Thanks for reading! Annie

Thai Farm Cooking School

Thai food has been my second favorite cuisine forever, Indian being first. I also LOVE to cook and have been reading cookbooks since I can remember. I enrolled Allan and I into a day of cooking classes at the Tai Farm Cooking School, www.thaifarmcooking.com it was ranked high on Trip advisor, my trusty go to for picks. The other reason I picked this school was because it is organic and it is located out of the city! 

They picked us up at 9 am at our condo and we crammed into the back of the pick-up behind Rika and the driver. Rita was our instructor for the day and so we had the privilege of talking with her on the way. Eight  people were in the back of the pickup,they were from New Zealand, America, Canada and France. 

Our  first stop was at  Ruamchok Market, where again, you could find anything you would want. Rika started to go thru all the different things that we would use that day. All the Fish sauce, Molasses, Soy, Oyster sauces,  Coconut milk, and the Palm Sugar that is made from the Sugar palm tree. Then the spices: Coriander, Cumin, Pandan leaf, . We looked at  Mung Beans, Bean sprouts, Sesame seeds and Peanuts. Are you getting hungry yet?

The fruits and the vegetables I will mention later, but the meat section was behind plastic doors and about 3 long tables worth. I stayed outside and of course Allan had to have a drool, I mean look! We were given a few minutes to look around, buy treats and then back in the truck.We arrived to the farm and got an apron and hat and a tour of the gardens right away. After 10 years in the tropics, I knew most everything they showed us except for the Pandam Leaf which is used in Thai desserts and drinks. and gives food that bright green color that I always wondered about. They also had a Bitter Eggplant that looks like large peas that is used for curries. (I had never seen that either). The gardens looked more like educational gardens as they were small. 

Next we were in the classroom and given a tray of an assortment of foods and spices on it. The lessons began. Rika did a demo and then it was up to us to repeat it. We all had our own stove to work with and knives, measuring cups etc. were all provided.

 Rita’s english was fantastic, she knew all the culinary terms, even heaping teaspoon! She is a funny, playful woman always adding an extra splash calling out "For YUM YUM!"

Each of us had chosen earlier what we wanted to prepare: 

Choose one: green, yellow or red curry,(chicken or veggie).

Choose one: Chicken with cashew nuts, Sweet and sour or Chicken with basil

Choose one: Tom Yam soup or Coconut Milk soup

Choose either: Spring rolls or Pad Thai

and for dessert: Bananas in Coconut milk or Mango with Sticky rice.

I suggested we choose different things so we learn more. It was a fast and furious day of cooking, adding chili’s carefully as both Allan and I ended with a dish we couldn’t eat! I enjoyed making the paste in the mortal and pestle with the herbs. Unfortunately I have been sick and so taste and smell for me was limited, however the chili’s cleaned me out a bit! I learned that you don’t cook Kaffir leaves long as it will turn the dish bitter, I also learned if you put mushrooms into a pot of rice and it turns the rice colors than the mushrooms are poisonous! The Thai use so many types of fresh and dried mushrooms, I just keep asking myself where does all this food come from? I learned about all the different rices and why we rinse them and which to soak. I learned about coconut milk and which ones you must use in one day. After each course we made we all sat down at the table in the serene setting and ate our meal. There were moans going on, all good except for a woman in the other class who got too much chili, her moan was the hurting kind. Our food was just as good as in the restaurants and this being because of fresh ingredients and lots of laughter and joy making it, not to mention the recipes. We stuffed ourselves into a food coma, and most of the other people had agreed that the farm needs hammocks for a half hour nap after eating. But NO, we still had two courses to go. Rika was on a time clock and it was ticking fast. We hurried through the desserts and they bagged our last dish up for us to take home. At the end we were given a really nice recipe book. I would recommend taking a cooking class to anyone visiting Thailand. They had 40 students a day at 1,200 Baht ($37.00) Not a bad living, seeing the veggies are next to nothing in price! This cooking school was booked everyday in season (which lasts a long time). We boarded back in the truck for the 40 minute ride back to the city. Another wonderful day in Thailand! Thank you Rika.